What Is Retinoid Purging And How Do You Deal With It?

Don’t fret—it’s nothing to be afraid of.

Oct 28, 2022

Are you looking to try retinoids but are worried about the well-known side effects a.k.a. retinoid purging? Plenty of people have incorporated retinoids in their skincare routine because they work as a two-in-one, targeting both acne and signs of skin aging. In fact, according to the American Academy of Dermatology, retinoids are ideal for treating acne because they inhibit the formation of blackheads and whiteheads, and are anti-inflammatory.

Meanwhile, in the anti-aging arena, retinoids are and will probably always be a mainstay. Harvard Health Publishing calls retinoids the most used and studied anti-aging compounds. “Retinoids reduce fine lines and wrinkles by increasing the production of collagen. They also stimulate the production of new blood vessels in the skin, which improves skin color. Additional benefits include fading age spots and softening rough patches of skin.”

Usually, when you hear about a skin care product that’s tried and tested, and works double-duty, it’s a no-brainer. But many are still wary of retinoids, and it’s primarily due to fear of retinoid purging—a period characterized by side effects like clogging, breakouts, redness, and/or peeling. Not surprising considering its other name is the “retinoid uglies.”

So What Is Retinoid Purging?

Skin purging is the skin’s temporary reaction to a product—in this case, retinoid—that can lead to breakouts, skin dryness, flaking, and peeling. Because retinoid brings new, healthy cells to the surface of your skin, it also ends up bringing up the nasties to the surface.

So yes, retinoids are known to bring about skin purging, but the key takeaway here is that it’s temporary, only lasting around four to six weeks. And the payoff is worth it. However, if you’re still worried about the adjustment period, here are a few tips that might help:

Keep at It

If you’re tempted to quit using retinoid completely once you see signs of purging, don’t. Retinoid purging is normal and won’t last forever. Plus, keep in mind that the results don’t happen overnight, so you have to be patient.

Also important to note: Gradual application is key. “Apply your product every other night or every two nights initially,” says Dr. Maximin Navarro, resident dermatologist at Bella Pelle Skin Solutions and a fellow of the Philippine Dermatological Society (PDS). “Then after two weeks, you may increase application to every night as tolerated by skin.”

You may see improvement in acne in as early as 2 to 4 weeks. Meanwhile, for wrinkles and fine lines, it takes three to six months of regular use before you start to see a difference and six to twelve months for best results.

If you’re looking to treat acne-prone skin, try Biretix Duo Anti-Blemish Gel. Its RetinSphere Technology formulation of retinoids prevents pore blockage to reduce white and blackheads and inhibits microorganism activity. ZO Retinol Skin Brightener 0.5%, on the other hand, combines high-potency retinol with calming and soothing properties for a comfortable experience as it improves skin texture and targets discoloration.

Biretix Duo Anti-Blemish Gel, P1,180

ZO Retinol Skin Brightener 0.5%, P7,200

In the event that you do notice an adverse reaction, it’s important to establish if it’s really retinoid purging or simply a bad reaction to the product. If the reaction is severe and/or persists for more than a month, stop using the product and consult your dermatologist immediately.

Keep it Simple

Retinoids on their own are enough to address your skin issues, so keep your routine simple. If you must use other products, make sure to look for the gentlest formulations. Harsh cleansers and moisturizers should not be used when incorporating retinoids in your skincare routine.

Opt instead for a gentle cleanser, like Froika W Plus Emollient Wash, which can soothe irritations and redness, restructure your skin’s hydrolipidic balance, and restore normal skin function. As for your moisturizer, try something mild like the Neostrata Ultra Moisturizing Face Cream, which has 10% Gluconolactone, vitamin E, and evening primrose to condition skin without any harshness.

Froika W Plus Emollient Wash, P1,750

Neostrata Ultra Moisturizing Face Cream, P2,650

Don’t Use It Every Day

Using it every day might be too much for your skin, especially if you’re a new user. You can start with the least intense retinoid formula and apply it every other night before gradually increasing the frequency.

Don’t Overdo It

As they say, everything in moderation. Putting on more product on your face doesn’t mean it’ll work faster or better. And especially with retinoids, less is more. All it takes is a pea-sized amount applied all over your face before bedtime.

Take Care Of Your Skin Barrier

Retinoids can deplete your skin’s moisture, making it more prone to redness and flaking. Using a moisturizer that has ceramides and hyaluronic acid can help. Try Glowbiotics MD Gentle Probiotic Calming Lotion, which strengthens the natural skin barrier and hydrates the skin. If you have acne-prone or oily skin, you can benefit from an oil-free moisturizer like the TDF Ultra Light Hydrator. For those with sensitive skin, the ZO Calming Toner gently repairs and soothes while infusing weak skin with lightweight hydration.

Glowbiotics MD Gentle Probiotic Calming Lotion, P3,980

TDF Ultra Light Hydrator, P1,700

ZO Calming Toner, P3,450

Don’t Forget the Sunscreen

Because retinoids make your skin more sensitive to sun exposure, it is more susceptible to UV damage. In fact, experts advise against using it during daytime. It’s also imperative that you take all the extra precautions necessary to protect your skin from the sun. Make sure to apply sunscreen daily, and choose a broad-spectrum formula that offers long-lasting protection. Try the Heliocare 360 Pigment Solution Fluid SPF 50+, which effectively shields against four types of radiation (UVA, UVB, IRA, and HEV) while delivering depigmenting properties. Want a lightweight gel? Go for the Heliocare Ultra 90 Gel—ideal for normal, oily, and acne-prone skin types.

Heliocare 360 Pigment Solution Fluid SPF 50+, P1,850

Heliocare Ultra 90 Gel, P2,550

For customized skin care recommendations, you can book a virtual or face-to-face dermatological consultation with Dr. Maximin Navarro, our resident dermatologist, and a Philippine Dermatological Society (PDS) fellow, here. You can also inquire at the Bella Pelle Skin Solutions Center via (+63) 999-887-1944. View our full treatment menu here.

For more beauty and skincare tips, subscribe to our newsletter:

SHOP OTHER PRODUCTS:

ZO Radical Night Repair 1% Retinol, P12,000	ZO Brightalive Skin Brightener, P8,050
Froika Retisome Cream, P2,520	Froika Retisome Eyes, P2,520